Last night I checked out the documentary "
When China Met Africa," by Nick and Marc Francis. The film followed several Chinese families and companies working in Zambia, including a family that has just bought a farm and a collaborative effort between a Chinese construction company and the government of Zambia to improve the longest road in Africa. While I enjoyed the film and had been particularly interested in seeing it given all the debate surrounding China's investment in certain parts of Africa that the U.S. won't invest in due to a concern for the disrespect of human rights, I was also, for the same reason, somewhat disappointed by it. I guess I was expecting more focus on the potential rewards and disadvantages of such investment as well as the morality debate. While these were touched on a bit, the film mostly focused on the rather routine business of working a farm or building a road (and the sometimes strained cross-cultural interactions). Lots of scenes of African workers waiting to be paid and complaining about being poorly treated and their Chinese bosses telling them they don't work hard enough and refusing to pay them.

The most interesting and enjoyable scenes for me were the ones depicting the moments of utter confusion that continually occur when two people communicate in a language which is neither of the interlocutors' mother tongue, moments which, as a Peace Corps Volunteer, I am very familiar with. It was particularly amusing because the common language in the film was English, which was spoken by Chinese and Zambians, though the film was subtitled in French and German. I often couldn't understand a word of what anyone was saying in English and had to follow along with the French subtitles. At one point, a Chinese woman asks her husband how any of the Zambians expects to be understood with their heavy accents. Even when a tense situation arose between worker and manager, both parties often ended up laughing away the problem because they couldn't quite figure out what they were saying to one another. Actually, on second thought, I suppose I really enjoyed the film, it just wasn't quite what I'd expected. Thankfully my time in the Peace Corps is teaching me to relinquish expectations.
At the end of the film I rushed out of the theater and jumped in a cab with some fellow volunteers to try to catch a film at the French Cultural Center. If we'd made it, it would have marked my first viewing of a Burkinabé film at the festival, so I was really looking forward to it, but as we pulled up to the center I realized that it was a long shot. I'm not sure I've ever seen such a large crowd of people and motos in Ouaga and, sure enough, the film was already sold out by the time we got to the ticket window.

So, instead, we got soft serve ice cream and hookah and waited for the last batch of films to begin at 10:30. We decided upon a film from Chad, "
Un homme qui crie," by Mahamet Saleh Haroun, because we'd heard it won the Prix du Jury at Cannes, and we therefore expected it to be good. Maybe it was just that the accolade raised my expectations too high, but I was unimpressed by the film, which struck me as plodding and bizarrely unmoving for a film that so clearly intended to stir the audience's emotions. [SPOILERS] It followed an aging champion swimmer who, in his twilight years, works as a pool attendant/swim instructor at an upscale resort in Chad, and who loses his job to his son, who, just as he begins his new job, finds himself forcibly enlisted in the national army, just before his pregnant girlfriend shows up at his parents' house looking for him. So much drama and so many heartfelt moments, yet the film struck me as emotionally barren. As we were leaving the theater, one of my friends turned to me and quipped, "God, by the end I just wanted to see the man cry so we could get out of there," at which point I had to inform him that he'd missed that scene during one of the many times he fell asleep in his seat.
FESPACO begins to wind down tonight, so I'll try to catch one last film, but I'm more excited for the concert at the SIAO fairgrounds featuring Salif Keita, world-renowned Malian singer-songwriter. A friend just went off in search of tickets, which I'm hoping are not already sold out.